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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.